Vintage Rolex Submariner 1680 Stainless Oyster

History of the Rolex Submariner 1680 Stainless Oyster

The Rolex Submariner 1680 is a landmark in the history of dive watches. Launched around 1967, this model introduced a game-changing feature: the date function. This was the very first time a Submariner had a date display, which caused quite a stir among purists.

Key Features of the 1680

The Submariner 1680 was produced from approximately 1967 to 1980. It came with a 40mm case, crafted from robust stainless steel. This model also marked Rolex’s first use of precious metals in the Submariner line, with an 18k yellow gold version available.

Functions included timekeeping with running seconds and a date display, thanks to the automatic Caliber 1575 movement. This movement was based on the Caliber 1570, known for its reliability and precision. The watch had a water resistance of up to 200 meters (660 feet), making it a true diver’s companion.

The Controversy and Legacy

The introduction of the date function was a turning point. For some, it was a departure from the Submariner’s roots as a tool watch. Critics argued that the date feature, along with the use of gold, shifted the Submariner toward being a luxury status symbol.

Despite the debate, the Submariner 1680 has become a collector’s treasure. The early models, especially those with the “Red” Submariner signature, are highly sought after. Their rarity and historical significance add to their allure, making them a fascinating piece of Rolex’s legacy.

This model set the stage for future innovations and solidified the Submariner’s place not just as a functional tool, but as an icon of style and prestige.

Vintage Rolex Submariner 1680 Stainless Oyster

Dial Variations and Rarity

The Vintage Rolex Submariner 1680 Stainless Oyster is celebrated for its dial variations, which significantly impact its value and desirability among collectors. The most notable distinction is between the “Red” and “White” Submariner dials.

The “Red” Submariner is particularly famous and valuable. It features the word “Submariner” printed in red on the dial, and there are six recognized variations of this red text, known as Marks I through VI. These variations are based on subtle differences in the font and layout, such as the thickness of the letters and the position of the depth rating. For instance, Marks I, II, and III have a “Meters First” depth rating, while Marks IV, V, and VI are “Feet First.” Each of these variations has its unique appeal, with collectors often seeking specific Marks that match certain serial number ranges.

The “White” Submariner, introduced later, features all-white text and is generally less rare than the “Red” versions. However, within the white dials, there are still distinctions that can intrigue collectors.

Movement and Mechanics

At the heart of the Rolex Submariner 1680 is the robust Caliber 1575 movement. This movement is a testament to Rolex’s engineering prowess. It is an automatic movement, known for its reliability and precision. One of its key features is the “hacking” function, which allows the seconds hand to stop when the crown is pulled out, making time-setting more accurate. This was a significant innovation at the time and is still appreciated by watch enthusiasts today.

The Caliber 1575 also includes a date function, which was a groundbreaking addition to the Submariner line. While some purists initially resisted this feature, it has since become a staple in many of Rolex’s sport watches.

The movement’s durability is further improved by its construction. It features a free-sprung balance and Microstella regulation, allowing for precise timekeeping. Additionally, it has a power reserve of approximately 48 hours, ensuring it keeps running smoothly even when not worn for a couple of days.

The combination of these features makes the Vintage Rolex Submariner 1680 Stainless Oyster not only a collector’s item but also a reliable and functional timepiece for everyday wear.

Authenticity and Collectibility of the Vintage Rolex Submariner 1680 Stainless Oyster

When it comes to the Vintage Rolex Submariner 1680 Stainless Oyster, authenticity and collectibility are key factors that drive its value. Let’s explore the details that make this watch a prized possession for collectors.

Authentic Details

Authenticity in a vintage Rolex is all about the details. For the Submariner 1680, these include the original components such as the “Top Hat” acrylic crystal, which is unique to this model. This crystal is tall and box-shaped, offering a distinctive vintage flair. The presence of the original Twinlock or Triplock crown can also be an indicator of authenticity, with the latter offering superior water resistance.

The date wheel is another crucial element. The original models had a brushed silver metallic finish with open 6s and 9s, except for the number 26, which was closed. These details help verify the originality of the piece.

Bezel Variations

The bezel insert is a significant component that affects the watch’s collectibility. There are multiple Mark variations for the ref. 1680 bezel inserts, with the “Kissing 40” Mark I being one of the earliest and most sought-after. Each Mark has specific traits, like the “Long 5” on Mark II or the serif characters on Mark III. These variations can help determine the production period and add to the watch’s historical value.

Bracelet Types

The Submariner 1680 originally came with several bracelet options. The ref. 93150, introduced in 1976, is noted for its solid side links and robust design, making it a popular choice for collectors. However, earlier models may feature the ‘USA Made Riveted’ or the ref. 7836 folded link Oyster bracelet, each with their own unique characteristics. The type of bracelet can significantly influence the watch’s value and authenticity.

Valuing a Vintage Rolex

When valuing a vintage Rolex like the Submariner 1680, several factors come into play:

• Age and Condition: Older models in good condition are typically more valuable. Signs of age like patina can improve value, but excessive wear may detract from it.
• Rarity: Limited production runs or unique features, like the “Red” Submariner, increase rarity and desirability.
• Market Demand: The popularity of specific models or features can fluctuate, affecting overall market value.

Buying Tips and Considerations: Rolex Submariner 1680 Stainless Oyster

Purchasing a vintage Rolex requires careful consideration. Here are some tips:

• Check for Original Components: Ensure that the watch retains its original parts, as replacements can affect value. However, Rolex service replacements are genuine and can improve functionality.

• Service History: A well-documented service history can provide peace of mind and ensure the watch’s longevity.

• Consult Experts: Given the complexities of vintage Rolex models, consulting with experts or reputable dealers can help verify authenticity and avoid pitfalls.

For those looking to add a Vintage Rolex Submariner 1680 Stainless Oyster to their collection, understanding these aspects is crucial. This ensures that your investment not only holds value but also brings the satisfaction of owning a piece of horological history.

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